StylePointer rates American shoemakers

All right, it's gotta be the shoes! They're usually among the first things that are noticed about a person. When it comes to professional dress for men, a well-made shoe is all-important, for comfort's sake if nothing else.

Not even the brand name can be more important than comfort. Certain shoe lasts aren't for everyone. I have spent more money on name brands where I should have paid attention to how well the shoe fits. Doc Martens of England, for example, are really durable, but the last is too wide for my foot, which I consider to be a medium (D) width.

Same with Alden, perhaps the best in U.S.-made cordovan shoes; too wide for me. I usually choose a C width in Aldens.

Johnston & Murphy? Another great shoe; another wide last. These also last a long time and are a sound investment for those whose feet fit the shoes.

There are three U.S. shoemakers that work best for me:

Cole-Haan has lasts that fit like clockwork. The company was bought by Nike in the late 1980s, and has since improved the comfort level of its shoe offerings, though some of its designs are less aesthetically pleasing than its classic predecessors.

Allen-Edmonds is a staple in consistency, offering rubber as well as leather soles. I recently have found discontinued models (like the Mapleton) that are incredibly comfortable.

The early H.S. Trask models are unbelievable with respect to its use of bison leather and rubber soles. The Gallatin oxfords are nothing short of stellar. I purchased my first pair in the '90s in Philadelphia, and I still have them.

If I had to my top five U.S. shoemakers, it would look something like this:

1. Allen-Edmonds
2. H.S. Trask
3. Cole-Haan
4. Alden
5. Johnston & Murphy

In an upcoming Style Points entry, I will give my top five English shoemakers.

Best in U.S.-made: Bills Khakis

Straight up: I can't get enough of Bills Khakis.

And no, I don't get paid to say this: These are clearly the most comfortable trousers on the market. They're based on the old World War II designs that allow for generous leg room and maximum breathability. Click here for the quick history of Bills Khakis (est. 1990).

What I like about them is not just the wide leg, but the deep pockets and durable fabrics. Bills Khakis are cut from the toughest of cotton and the finest of wool. There are three types of fit: Model 1 (widest leg), Model 2 (less wide, which many specialty menswear stores carry), and Model 3 (slim cut).

Not least, wherever possible, I try to support businesses whose goods are "made in U.S.A." Bills Khakis are not cheap, but a quality investment that lasts.

Where to find Bill's Khakis? Just go to the upper-left corner of their Web site, which has a store locater. I've been successful in finding them at esteemed establishments On The Fly of San Francisco, Culwell & Son of Dallas, The Village Clothier of Houston, and O'Connell's of Buffalo, to name a few.

Bills Khakis are found only at selected menswear stores. If you see them, try 'em ... you'll see what I mean.

Why Style matters

On a recent flight back to Houston from Dallas, I was seated in the very last row of the plane, next to a man who was impeccably dressed: dark Zegna suit, burgundy Brioni tie, black John Lobb wingtips.

These items are usually found at Neiman Marcus. I recognized most of his clothing before actually asking him. I knew his pieces were carefully chosen.

Turns out this man, a radio executive, is a student of Style. He mentioned Canali as his other designer of choice; he outfitted his 22-year-old son in a Canali suit, and his interest in clothing has since taken off.

Now, I still have my tan Zegna and charcoal Canali suits in my closet. I purchased both in early 2001 at a Barney's warehouse sale in an airplane hangar in Santa Monica, Calif.

So now, I'm on a plane with a 20-year Army veteran who recognizes the power of clothes. "When people are doing business with me, personal presentation matters."

I concur. Clothes send a message. If you're disheveled, chances are you're disorganized. If you're well-coordinated, you likely mean business.

And business this man did mean. He cared enough to put his best look forward.

When I got home, I went to my closet and checked out my suits and casual wear. I know what messages I want to send in future dealings with the people I meet.

Thanks, Mr. Executive Guy.