Tuesday, November 23, 2010
New blog on chron.com gets buzz
Thanks for taking time out to post a comment to my blogs. Please keep 'em coming. I look forward to making more interesting entries.
Friday, November 19, 2010
See more on Style on chron.com
You'll probably see more of my posts on chron.com, though I will on occastion be posting entries here on Style Points and for other sites.
Let's go!
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Face the facts: Gotta shave, fellas
In my best phonetic impersonation of my former Philadelphia Inquirer colleague Stephen A. Smith: "How-evuh ...!"
I don't care how accomplished an athlete you are; please take a little time out to shave before going on camera. Some reporter out there probably will do a sidebar story on unkempt countenances, and ask some ridiculous (but relevant for such a story) question like, "Thank you for speaking to the media. But before you talk about what happened during the game, why is your beard connected to your chest?"
Exhibit A: The normally clean-shaven Tom Brady gave a postgame interview with a noticeable beard after leading the New England Patriots to a 39-26 victory at Pittsburgh on Sunday night. (Catch Monday morning's highlights on SportsCenter if you want to see what I mean.) When the whiskers are visible on his neck, that's unseemly.
I wonder sometimes if Mr. Brady's latest look is an homage to former teammate Randy Moss, a stellar wide receiver who himself plays his position with ever-present facial hair. Now with the Tennessee Titans (who lost to the Miami Dolphins 29-17 on Sunday), Mr. Moss' beard is fuller and coarse.
On Sunday, Mr. Brady, a three-time Super Bowl champion quarterback, took a walk on the wild side, even for him. C'mon, man! It's the NFL, not the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. Ironically, during Mr. Brady's postgame interview on Sunday night, there's are Gillette Fusion ProGlide logos in the background. (Cue up the ad campaign right about now.)
It's late in the day, guys. The excessive facial-hair thing is soooooooo '70s.
Shaving the neck area takes about five minutes tops, and your appearance is more orderly for subsequent interviews. Yes, it's a free country, I get that. But really, from a style standpoint, a selective lack of grooming draws a penalty flag in a hurry.
Friday, November 5, 2010
Style Points crosses over to McGuff turf
The following month, I asked media blogger Mike McGuff, creator of MikeMcGuff.com and who currently is a reporter for KIAH-TV Ch. 39 in Houston, to stand in as a model for my post on how one garment can change your look.
Fast forward to November 2010, and Mr. McGuff asked me to return the favor. I was asked to list on his blog my top 10 style errors.
I'm sure there's a range of fashion not-to-dos out there, but my list is intended as a basis for dialogue. Let's hear it!
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Well-fitting shoes are worth paying the price
Some of the most powerful forces that affect humankind are astonishingly the most simple.
If, in the words of William Congreve, "Musick has Charms to sooth a savage Breast"; and if food is the way to a man's heart, then where might footwear, "if the shoe fits," rank?
It's gotta be up there (the shoes, that is). Growing up, all I wore were sneakers. Converse, Pro-Keds, anything rubber-soled that enabled me to run all day. Problem is, sneakers wear out quickly.
Since entering the workforce in my teenage years, shoes became more of a priority. Shoes are obviously more appropriate than sneakers in professional work environments, and can be resoled. The comfort factor is most important, given that I am on my feet a lot at work.
Purchasing shoes that are visually appealing but do not fit correctly is a waste of money, even when they're on sale, and potentially painful to wear. Having done this more than once, I have only myself to blame.
That got me thinking ... what price would I be willing to pay for a comfortable pair of shoes?
The short answer is the amount that is at least as much as I value comfort ... but hopefully the price is negotiable.
I have worn shoes made in the U.S. (Alden, Allen-Edmonds, Cole-Haan, H.S. Trask), France (Paraboot), England (Gieves & Hawkes, Charles Tyrwhitt, Edward Green), and Italy (Fratelli-Rosetti and Damiano Chiappini). While each shoemaker has different designs and price points, the common denominator is they're all comfortable.
My latest acquisition is a pair of two-tone, handmade Stefano Branchini shoes, which retail for thousands of dollars. Branchini shoes have been worn by the likes of Sir Elton John and outgoing California Gov. Arnold Schwarznegger. Branchini shoes feature side stitching, leather-tipped laces, embossing on bottom of the sole, and metal eyelets. Here's a look at what I mean:
When I tried them on, the Branchinis fit like a glove and carry a bold look. Even on sale (which they were when I got them), the bottom-line price was hefty but within the acceptable range of what I was willing to pay. (No, I'm not telling.) They are a one-of-a-kind purchase; comfortable and elegant.
With proper maintenance, I'm sure to get plenty of mileage out of these shoes, though they're not meant to be worn every day. I certainly will not keep them in a box and allow them to catch dust, either. Branchinis are a great find when they're on sale. The Bologna-based shoemaker's attention to detail is admirable.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Think pink for Breast Cancer Awareness
While pink is more accepted in women's wear, it is gaining momentum in menswear, thanks in part to the month of October being Breast Cancer Awareness month. This is a cool thing, and rather ironic since the color pink usually is regarded as a summer color. In the fall, pink becomes not just symbolic; it is a change of pace.
With dress shirts, pink is another option that joins the whites and light blues that men are used to when suiting up. Dark ties with pink accents are welcome complements.
Although pink has made strides in conservative menswear, there's still a sentiment of resistance to the color, that pink may be too leisurely or "for sissies."
News flash: We're a decade into the 21st century, and pink is increasingly "in." In fact, it never left. Let's review a few of such icons over the years: We have the pink Cadillac; the Pink Panther; and Pinky, one of the baddies who's always chasing Pac-Man.
Pink has long been a "preppy" color that's been available for years at retailers such as Brooks Brothers, J. Crew and Polo Ralph Lauren. In the spring and summer, pink is prevalent in seersucker suits, Oxford shirts and ties. In the fall and winter, a pink shirt provides a nice contrast with a navy blazer or suit.
Pink is still an acquired taste for me, but it's not difficult to work it into my wardrobe. (Yellow is actually tougher for me.) The key is to achieve balance. Too much pink means too casual; with dark suits, incorporating pink in the right places (shirts, ties, pocket squares) will go far.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
T.O. chapeau inspires at least one follower
Of course, seeing is believing, and I experienced this firsthand earlier on Thursday afternoon. Peep this: A woman walks into the high-end menswear store where I work, and asks me if the store carries fedoras. I replied that we carry only one model in the store, and it's brown.
She was looking for a black fedora, "like the one my boyfriend saw T.O. wearing on TV."
Oh, really? The same T.O. who has a reality show, and is usually good for a colorful quote during press conferences? I was stunned, but maintained my professional demeanor during the exchange.
I suggested that she try The Hat Store on Richmond and Chimney Rock in Houston. Plenty of fedoras are there, from Borsalino to Stetson. She thanked me for the tip.
Then, I got to thinking afterward ... will Owens' fedora-wearing ways gain a following? At least two of his pro football predecessors, coaches Tom Landry and Hank Stram, wore fedoras. Fedoras remain an elegant option for middle-age men. In Houston, however, I don't see too many hats in general (outside of baseball caps) being worn.
Whether athletes are trendsetters in classic style remains to be seen. Michael Jordan may have brought long shorts into vogue during his playing days in the '80s, but even his appearances in GQ haven't generated a sea change in men's style. Other GQ cover guys such as Kobe Bryant and LeBron James are among current NBA stars who have upped the ante on style, but no clear front-runner has emerged.
NFL linebacker Dhani Jones is known for sporting bow ties, the preferred accessory of former NBA player-turned-ESPN basketball analyst Bruce Bowen. Shaquille O'Neal has worn a bow tie in postgame interviews during the NBA playoffs. Still, the "bow tie effect" hasn't caught on in today's men's fashion scene, which is getting less and less formal.
The irony is that fedoras and bow ties are hardly new; these are "old school" pieces of clothing that offer a retro look. In fact, they never left.
I'm not sure whether it's T.O.'s intention to reinvigorate the fedora, but one thing's for sure: Look at any old movie starring Cary Grant, Gary Cooper, Douglas Fairbanks Jr. or David Niven. If you study these films the way Mr. Owens would on opposing defensive backs, you'd make the All-Sartorial team in record time.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Rooster ties bring back memories
Fast forward to Saturday ... I went into Syms initially looking for Allen-Edmonds shoes but stopped by the ties first. I couldn't believe there were a selection of Rooster ties. These were the current versions featuring timeless stripes, polka dots and animal designs in various colors. I could have collected them all, but settled for two.
The nice thing about Rooster ties is that they are very well made. They are inexpensive. I found mine at $14.99 each. If you don't want to spend a heckuva whole lot of money on ties, Roosters are a worthwhile investment.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Style Points branches out
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Men's jewelry accentuates personal style
To wit: Do you prefer wearing a necktie, bow tie or no tie? Are cuff links part of your repertoire? Braces or belt?
Just as your selection of accessories depends on the occasion at hand, your selection of jewelry cannot be understated. A well-chosen ring and watch can generate significant Style Points for the wearer.
Yesterday, I walked into a Tiffany & Co. boutique in Houston and took a look at men's rings. I previously had purchased a sterling silver Tiffany Moderne ring and was wearing it as I was browsing at men's rings in the glass case. A woman standing next to me noticed that I was wearing the same ring she was considering for her man, and decided to get it. I was thrilled inside.
I don't have many hard-and-fast rules for wearing rings, other than to wear only one ring per hand. Wearing more than one ring on the same hand reduces the effect and the presentation becomes tacky. (Only Iron Man's arch foe, the Mandarin, can pull it off.) Also, you'll want a quality piece (sterling silver, 14- or 18-karat gold, or platinum depending on what you can afford) to represent your sense of style.
The ring I like most is the signet ring, which is worn on either the ring finger or pinky. It exudes manliness, plain and simple.
If you want more bling, then the watch is just the thing. Again, choose what you can afford, but understand that if your intent is to make a favorable first impression on a job interview or at a party, a good watch is a worthwhile investment. There are a number of quality watchmakers out there, but if you want to go a few notches above Timex, Casio and Seiko on the bling meter, consider Movado, which offers an iconic design at various price points. If you're moving up in the world, shoot for the likes of Cartier and Patek Phillipe. And if you get one of the latter, relish it big time.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
It's sale time, but don't go broke over it
Now that it's after Father's Day and heading toward the Fourth of July, look for the discounts to increase. There is a caveat to this strategy: You'll have competition from other shoppers looking for the best deal, too, and the item that you have your eye on may be sold before you're willing to pull the trigger.
For example, Movado's boutiques are going out of business at the end of June. It's discounts on jewelry increased each week during the month, from 50 percent on selected pieces the first week, to 60 percent the next, then to 70 percent this week.
I decided that no matter what was being sold by the store at a certain level of discount, I would decide from what was left at the higher discount. This approach reduces any regret for items that were well out of my price range, even at a sale price, to begin with. The item I wanted was still there, but there were inquiries from others. Fortunately, I put the item on hold at just the right time. I then bought it at 70 percent off.
This leads to a second caveat: Just because an item is on sale doesn't mean you have to buy every such item that you see. Be selective about what it is you're looking for and stick to the plan. Granted, getting more for less is best, but do it affordably.
Finally, when the sale period ends, take a look at the new items coming in for the next season. Yes, the new stuff will be at full price, but some of these items will eventually go on sale during Christmas time. If what you want doesn't go on sale, decide if you're willing to the pay the asking price.
Good luck.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Craig Sager owns the paint in pink
Those who were watching the game on television may have seen Mr. Sager rockin' a pink windowpane sport jacket and white trousers, a decidedly fresh springtime look. His pink floral tie completed the ensemble. Clearly, Mr. Sager had fun with assembling this outfit.
And for extra credit to those wearing pink, check out fellow TNT broadcaster Charles Barkley, whose pink shirt with blue stripe coordinated nicely with his light blue suit. Sir Charles might want to remove the buttons from the collar points if he doesn't wish to use them, but other than that, this is another spring fashion done simply and smartly.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
How ESPN's NBA guys measure up for style sake
There are couple of things to know about wardrobe selection that might explain why certain colors that are seen on TV aren't necessarily popular choices in conventional workplace wear.
First, a studio's backdrop is a factor when choosing what to wear. The last thing anyone in front of a camera wants is to blend in with the background.
Second, you might see three-button jackets being worn more often than two-button models because it's a cleaner look on camera when the top two buttons of the jacket are fastened. So don't follow the bandwagon that three-button models are not "in." Such trends are cyclical and should not sway your clothing decisions. What matters is that the look is simple and elegant.
Back to the ESPN crew on Sunday night:
-- Magic Johnson came out of the box strong with a peak-lapel, gray suit with a pinstripe pattern and a solid pink shirt. Mr. Johnson's tie, however, does not anchor the look. It is a red, white and light blue stripe that competes with the pattern of the suit and looks fuzzy altogether. I would suggest a solid charcoal or black tie, which give an understated elegance and does not steal the suit's thunder. Grade: B-
-- Jon Barry's solid tan suit evokes the season that is spring, and his deep red paisley tie is an excellent complement with his tattersall shirt. Well balanced and well coordinated. Grade: A
-- Michael Wilbon's light gray suit contrasts well with his pale yellow shirt. The brown tie with light blue and light brown polka dots looks great on TV, but does not pick up the color of the jacket or shirt. I'm not certain whether the pattern of the jacket is a glen plaid, which usually has light blue lines running vertically and horizontally throughout. It's not easy to see on TV. Grade: B
-- Stuart Scott's light gray suit matches up well with his light gray striped shirt, but the kelly green tie and multicolor pocket square dominate the suit. The knot on the tie is so big that it doesn't come up flush against the top of the collar, and the pocket square doesn't match anything else that he's wearing. Grade: C-
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Cavs' LeBron, Mo keep it simple
Mr. James wore a solid gray shirt with a black vest, while Mr. Williams sported a gray shirt and tie with a black sweater with blue trim around the shoulders. Both men looked very smart, casual and not least, professional in front of the camera.
There's not much else to add. Well done, gentlemen.
Bow tie earns big Style Points for Shaq
Mr. O'Neal reprised his stylish look from the previous round's postgame interviews and came correct: A solid silver, floral print bow tie (it's put on correctly this time), with a crisp white shirt and a gray pinstripe suit.
That's how it's done. A textbook presentation.
Of course, Mr. O'Neal's attire drew an inevitable ribbing from TNT analyst Charles Barkley, who asked The Big Bow-dacious, "Did you give up pork?"
Mr. Barkley was alluding to the Fruit of Islam led by Minister Louis Farrakhan, who are recognized for wearing bow ties. It's a joke that would fall flat if Messrs. Barkley and O'Neal did not know each other well, but the question drew laughs from TNT colleagues Chris Webber, Kenny Smith and host Ernie Johnson.
Shaq responded with aplomb, and the postgame interview ended a few moments later.
Let's review ... if you're going to wear a bow tie outside of formal occasions, it's important to "own" the look. People might test you or poke fun, but that should only reinforce your conviction in wearing it in the first place. There is a uniqueness about a man who wears a bow tie. If you know how to tie one from scratch, that's a skill that other men may shy away from learning, giving you a sartorial advantage.
I'm still curious to see whether Mr. O'Neal tied that knot by himself ... at any rate, he gets big Style Points.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
NBA postgame snapshot observations
Some of the players opt for plaid, others don sweaters and vests, with or without ties. The coaches are consistently polished ... and then there's Shaq.
To see the recent postgame interview attire, click here. Among the clips, you might see the following ...
-- Phoenix Suns point guard Steve Nash sports the secret-agent look with a wide-lapel jacket and tie after defeating the Portland Trail Blazers in six games on Thursday.
-- Dallas Mavericks forward Dirk Nowitzki keeps it simple with a French blue shirt after losing their first-round series to the San Antonio Spurs.
-- I like LeBron James' shawl-collar sweater and knit tie combination after the Cleveland Cavaliers' series-clinching victory over the Chicago Bulls on Tuesday. The "LBJ" crest is an especially nice touch."
-- Shaquille O'Neal has a great French-cuff shirt and vest ... but a clip-on tie? Clearly, he jests. But he'd actually look cooler if he was wearing an untied bow tie. It would signify a sort of after-party look, now that the formal event is over.
-- Orlando Magic center Dwight Howard goes with the tan jacket with epaulets, red shirt, black V-neck sweater, black pocket square and plaid tie after Monday's sweep of the Charlott Bobcats. I prefer matching my pocket square with my tie, but Mr. Howard matched his pocket square with his sweater. The tie is too light and does not readily pick up any of the other pieces in his presentation.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Bow tie old hat for Bowen, bold move for TV
Other notable sightings of bow-tie clad sports figures of late include TNT analyst and former Houston Rocket Kenny Smith and current Rocket Aaron Brooks; and NFL linebacker Dhani Jones sports the look here.
By wearing bow ties, these gentleman have at least took the time to bring some level of "cool" to an accessory that generally is accepted with tuxedoes, but not always in the business world. (Conversely, wearing neckties with formal wear doesn't quite measure up to the majesty of a bow tie.)
In Mr. Bowen's case, he is a consistent contributor to ESPN as an NBA analyst and you'll be seeing more of him as the playoffs progress. If he continues in the bow tie direction, I'd suggest that he either draw the knot tighter (it appears too big on screen and the bow looks less defined) or select a tie that has a narrower width, a la James Bond.
In any event, Mr. Bowen is on the right track. The color of his ties work in concert with his jacket. (When Mr. Brooks wears the red blazer and matching tie, it's clear he is representing the Rockets. All other non-Rockets should not try this at home.) Ironically, Mr. Bowen has acheived a conservative look with a tie that's outside the norm when it's on television.
That said, Mr. Bowen stands out. Whether others follow isn't the point; Mr. Bowen owns his path. Keep it goin', dude.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Must-haves in your wardrobe
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Working linen into your wardrobe
I have reason to believe that among men who dress conservatively for work, there is a reluctance to embrace linen as part of their wardrobe. For some, linen's inherent property of wrinkling makes men less comfortable about wearing it in public than a non-iron cotton shirt.
Lighten up, fellas. The whole point of wearing linen is to get as far away from work attire as possible. Linen works best when worn outdoors, eating outside at cafes, strolling down boardwalks.
To test the look, I went out to my backyard wearing a linen suit and a cotton/linen blend sleeveless shirt. I live in the Houston area, where it's typically 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the spring.
The linen suit is a brown pinstripe from Polo; the shirt is from Nautica; and the leather-lined, linen shoes are vintage Cole-Haan. I especially like the generous leg room in the trousers, which gives me an "Oxford bag" look. To top it off, the straw hat is from Borsalino.
Finding linen shoes these days is a bit of a challenge; sandals work just as easily if you wish to maintain the leisurely look.
Bottom line: Don't be afraid to experiment with linen. It's meant not to be ironed. It is comfortable in warm climates.
D-Wade chanels his 'inner lumberjack'
After talking to his "hot" hand during his scoring spree in Game 4 on Sunday in Miami, Mr. Wade answered questions from the media afterward. He was wearing a red plaid sport shirt and a solid black vest.
In my modest experience in working on television and film sets, one of the things that production people often advise is when appearing in front of cameras, avoid wearing white, red or black clothing. Whenever I see these colors on television, whites appear too bright (use eggshell or off-white instead), red comes across "flat" as a color (substitute deep red or maroon), and black makes an object appear two-dimensional instead of three (use navy).
So in person, Mr. Wade looks fine. On television, while the plaid he was wearing was the right shade of red, it needs to be a little darker to show up stronger on screen. The black vest helped balance the colors of the shirt, and Mr. Wade's presentation was much simpler than his postgame attire from previous playoff games. (See my previous posts.)
Bottom line: The "hardworking lumberjack" look works for me.
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Craig Sager keeps you looking
That can be a blessing or a curse, depending on the outfit. So far during the 2010 NBA playoffs, I have seen him on TV wearing a salmon-colored jacket and matching flower for one playoff game and an electric-blue jacket, flower tie and pocket square during another playoff game. (The latter is his latest outfit from Saturday's Game 4 between the Phoenix Suns and Portland Trail Blazers.) One thing is for sure: Whatever information he gets from his interviews, Mr. Sager's clothing lingers in my short-term memory, long enough to wonder what he's going to wear next.
Now, for the sake of disclosure, I met Mr. Sager during the NBA playoffs three years at A. Taghi in Houston, when the Rockets were in the playoffs. He shook my hand and was really gracious while he was shopping for clothes.
So as I watch him working on television, is there a message that his clothing sends to the television audience? Is it loud? Proud? In your face (or maybe in the faces of his interviewees ... ask Kevin Garnett)? Or just minding his own business?
Well, Mr. Sager's style can work for the average Joe who's not on TV for a living, but in certain environments. The bright colors are great outdoors, especially on boardwalks on the beach if the material is cotton or linen. Indoors, casinos are a great place to sport colorful attire.
I must also admit that when I first saw Mr. Sager on television several years ago, I thought to myself, "I'm revising my will. I wouldn't be caught dead in a casket if someone dressed me that way." However, I was looking through a lens of dressing for a conventional workplace.
Through the lens of entertainment, which is a significant element of sports television, Mr. Sager recognizes clothing that gets your attention. Whether you think you can dress any better than he can misses the point. The question is, are you comfortable wearing clothing that you know will get you noticed? Can you pull it off?
Some memorable outfits come to mind, like Eddie Murphy's leather garb in his standup films "Delirious" and "Raw", and Michael Jackson's sequined white glove in his live performance of "Billie Jean."
I'm not sure I can wear clothing like that while walking down a typical street, but I respect the look for what it is. For Mr. Sager's part, I estimate that I could take one of his sportcoats and make it work for me.
Just one, though.
NBA postgame wear: Now you're talkin'
Denver Nuggets forward Carmelo Anthony comes through in a big way after a Game 3 loss at Utah on Friday. Mr. Anthony wears a suit and tie, with contrasting-collar shirt and pocket square. The wide stripe of the tie avoids competing with the stripe of the shirt.
Other tie options that would work well with Mr. Anthony's suit include either paisley or polka-dot patterns as a complement to the suit and shirt. As for the pocket square, it should match the color of the tie.
Mr. Anthony's teammate, Chauncey Billups, presents a casual look that's very cool. Notice the V-neck white tee contrasting with a form-fitting black jacket. Mr. Billups looks as if he's in control, very understated.
Utah's Carlos Boozer and Deron Williams display varying degrees of casual. Mr. Boozer goes open collar with his jacket and pocket square, while Mr. Williams goes with a striped cardigan. Both mendo not call attention to their appearances, yet both are clearly comfortable in their clothing.
Keep it up, fellas.
Friday, April 23, 2010
Epaulets emerge during NBA postgame interviews
Cleveland Cavaliers guard Mo Williams sported a black crushed velvet jacket Thursday night after his team's Game 3 loss at Chicago. His look is much simpler than that of Dwight Howard, who had too many sartorial elements going on after his Game 2 news conference.
Whether epaulets on sport jackets appear to be the next trend among NBA players remains to be seen. Quite frankly, it's over the top. I'm looking for Prince to show up to demonstrate why the look works for him.
Moving on to other style observations, click here to look at LeBron James during his postgame interview.
Now, Mr. James runs into the same issue as Mr. Howard: Multiple elements not working together. Plaid shirt, solid black vest, tie.
Let's start with the shirt. The pattern is a bold plaid. Lose the tie and the vest, and let the shirt speak for itself.
Or, keep the vest and tie, but a solid-colored shirt works best. White is the safest choice, but it appears too bright when photographed by television cameras. Light gray would be the optimal selection with Mr. James' vest and tie.
In my next blog post, I will focus on the players who look cool by keeping it simple.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Magic's 'Superman' flops in civvies
Don't get me wrong. So far, Dwyane Wade initially got my attention as a snazzy dresser from one of his commercials. But on Tuesday, with that pewter jacket with red trim, wide lapels and epaulets (epaulets?), Mr. Wade is opening the door to much laughter with such outfits.
The latest aberration in fashion was sighted on Wednesday night, during the postgame media Q/A session with Orlando Magic center Dwight Howard sitting at the podium. Usually, he cuts a striking figure in civvies, based on his photo gallery on his website or a recent appearance on ESPN's PTI. From what I could tell, Mr. Howard was wearing a crushed velvet jacket with a crested pocket and epaulets (!), a bow tie and a yellow cardigan sweater.
Hmmm ... taken individually, I like all the elements, believe it or not. But crushed velvet is usually worn at after-hours lounges or by hosts at house parties; bow ties present a uniqueness about a man who knows how to tie one; a cardigan adds maturity to a man's look.
But on Wednesday, Mr. Howard's execution is sorely lacking. Look, I'll say it now: Unless you're in the military, this epaulets thing does NOT work. You can't throw in all these elements together on one person and hope something sticks. Crested jackets? That's expected wear in prep schools, but it's a pretentious look outside those environments. Wearing this jacket makes an otherwise nice-looking bow tie appear out of place. And the cardigan is too loud in yellow. Gray would have been a better choice.
That's all for now. But Mr. Howard knows better. I expect him to bounce back with super attire in the future.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
When NBA fashion misses the mark
Usually, coaches and the media are sensibly attired in professional wear. Yet some glaring exceptions emerge from time to time.
Tuesday night was one such occasion. As I was preparing to go to bed after Game 2 of the Lakers-Thunder series on TNT (L.A. leads the series, 2-0, in case you're wondering), I saw some of the postgame highlights from some of the other playoff games. To wit:
These were only a few notable fashion (miss) statements from the NBA world. And now, back to the games ...
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
The secret to tying a bow tie
Back to bow ties. You already know how. Put it this way: Do you know how to tie your shoes?
Don't avoid this question by saying you only wear slip-on loafers or sandals. Be a man and accept the challenge.
For those in the know when it comes to tying shoes, think about the steps: One end over the other, pull both laces down, form one half of the bow with one lace by holding the loop, bring the other lace over and through the space where the knot will form, creating another loop, and pull down both loops that form the bow.
Start with one end longer than the other, with the longer end going over the shorter end, then go from there. Visually, click here to understand what I mean. (Think "shoes.")
With repetition and practice, you'll have tying a bow tie down pat.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Best in U.S.-made: Hamilton shirts
In previous posts, I have touched on the value of natural fabrics as a criterion for selecting comfortable clothing. I will now cut to the chase: Where possible, go bespoke. Even if you can afford one custom-made shirt, it's worth the investment.
Reputable high-end retailers such as Brooks Brothers offer made-to-measure programs with swatch books of fabrics and reps ready to take your measurements. Feel their fabrics and you can quickly surmise that price runs proportionate to quality, from solid to better-than-that to even-better-than-that.
Other U.S.-based shirtmakers include Mel Gambert of Newark, N.J., and Ripley Shirt Co. of Dallas, which offer a variety of options.
Being based in Houston, I'm admittedly biased and have to go with the home team -- Hamilton Shirts. They've been making shirts since 1883, all on the premises. The folks who took my measurements got it right the first time, and subsequent shirts that I order will have the same specs on file. It's the only bespoke shirt that I wear. At this rate, I'll wear it out quickly. But I know where to go to get more.
Kelly and David Hamilton, the siblings who represent the current generation of Hamilton shirts, are down-to-earth people who oversee the company. While I'm sure they have a lot on their minds when it comes to running the business, the quality of the shirts made under their watch speaks for itself.
Make no mistake: A bespoke Hamilton shirt makes for a sound investment if you're someone who favors clothing made in the U.S.A. and can afford a customized fit.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Best in U.S.-made: Oxxford suits
So is the fabric. The above designers likely will use 100 percent wool or 100 percent cotton, but the quality of the material varies (and so does the price).
That got me thinking about what is more important, the designer's name or how comfortable the clothes will be. The latter is paramount; some designers fit better than others on a given individual. Some fabrics perform better than others.
So I decided to go to the upper echelon of American menswear, which includes Chicago-based Oxxford, outfitters of U.S. presidents including George W. Bush, and many other notable people. Oxxford, like Brooks Brothers and Polo, offers high-end menswear, which also includes Western wear.
What makes Oxxford distinctive is the painstaking labor that goes into its garments. Suits are hand-stitched, the trousers feature a continuous waistband, and the jacket includes a "bellows pocket" on the inside, which expands when items are placed in it.
For more on how Oxxford suits are made, click here.
About 18 months ago, I toured the Oxxford factory and got to see firsthand how the clothes are made, from the selection of fabrics to the cutting of patterns to the stitching to the finished product. It's an impressive process that takes several weeks, but it's well worth the wait.
For these reasons, I consider Oxxford to be the best in American-made suits.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
My Review of Bills Khakis M3 Bullard Field Pants - Flat Front (For Men)
Originally submitted at Sierra Trading Post
Closeouts . Bills Khakis claims these M3 Bullard cotton field pants are so robust and well made you may be compelled to put them in your will. Numerous professional washes produce a soft hand and slightly faded look Made with hard work and American ingenuity in Reading, Pennsylvania Model #3...
Bullish on Bullard Field Pant
Pros: High Quality, Durable, Comfortable
Best Uses: Wear To Work, Casual Wear
Describe Yourself: Classic Dresser
Whether you wear 'em, kick 'em or shoot 'em, these trousers can take anything. The Bullard Field Pant has a casual, rugged look.
I usually get Model 1s or Model 2s, but the trimmer-fitting Model 3 fits well for me in a larger size. They're made in the USA, and very much built to last.
(legalese)
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Best in U.S.-made: Houston Rodeo wear
The exhibit hall at Reliant Park is huge. You can find just about anything in there, especially Western clothing. There are at least three must-sees at the Houston Rodeo exhibit hall, all of whom have custom-made capabilities:
-- M.L. Leddy's: John Ripps, a former Neiman's employee with at least 30 years of experience in menswear, knows how to put together a stylish Western look at the Fort Worth-based maker of fine apparel, boots and saddles. Oxxford is a major player in his inventory. I tried on an Oxxford silk-cashmere tan blazer that fit like a glove, one of his best jackets. The $3,640 tag represents the high end, not to mention made-to-measure options. For that kind of money, it's considered an investment in the best.
-- Shorty's Caboy Hattery: Here's a hatter who can make a 100x fur felt hat for under $1,000. Lavonna "Shorty" Kroger ain't so short in stature; if anything, she's long on experience. Shorty's range of hats reflect what customers want and how they want it. Shorty is a regular at the Rodeo, coming to Houston from Oklahoma City.
-- Old Frontier Clothing Co.: Larry Bitterman makes it his business to outfit Hollywood with his authentic Western styles reminiscent of what you might see in the HBO drama "Deadwood" or the older films that may include John Wayne or Clint Eastwood. Bitterman has an eye for detail and can cut a jacket for you at a reasonable price ($285 and up, depending on availability of fabric) using natural fabrics.
The Houston Rodeo continues through March 21 at Reliant Park in Houston.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Nordstrom Rack opening a big hit in Houston
A friend reminded me the previous day that the grand opening was happening on the 25th, and that a drawing for a $2,000 shopping spree would be held before the store opening, and that getting there early would ensure seeing the full selection of items in the store.
For me, as Mars Blackmon of Spike Lee's Nike ad campaign fame might say: "It's gotta be the shoes." That was my sole mission. I was determined to peruse the shoes.
So, I set out to beat morning traffic and got on the road at 4:55 a.m., whizzed down Interstate 10 east to the Galleria area in about a half hour, parked the car and waited among three others parked in the lot, staying warm with temperatures below 40 degrees outside.
The first person who arrived, Tamara Kelly, told store organizers she arrived at 4:30 a.m. At about 6 a.m., she took a seat on a bench near the entrance, where ropes were being set up for the line to form. I got out of my car after reading an article in GQ be next in line, sitting next to her on the bench.
Tamara stands all of 5-foot-1 with a world of gumption to brave the cold three hours before the store is scheduled to open. I put on my jacket and decide that I'm going to withstand the cold before sunrise, too.
In anticipating a line of customers willing to wait hours in advance, store organizers rolled out food and beverages courtesy of Jason's Deli, to feed the formation of huddled masses yearning for free shopping spree. Smart move. Not long after Tamara and I sit on the bench and talk "shop," several other women get in line. I give up my seat, get some food and return to my place in line. (No. 2, yo!)
By 7 a.m., forms are available to fill out for the $2,000 shopping spree. The parking lot begins to fill with more cars, more people emerge to enter the drawing, get food and get in line, all contemplating what they would in gathering as many items as possible for 90 seconds inside the store.
To be sure, being the first in line has its perks. Tamara got to talk to a radio host from KHMX-FM 96.5 "The Mix," an on-camera interview and a $100 gift card from the president of the Nordstrom Rack chain, not to mention some schwag from the The Mix tent located on the end of the storefront opposite from the customer line.
On Tamara's initiative, she shared the spotlight with me as "the first guy." Real nice of her. So I got an interview in front of the camera and some schwag (no gift card, though, but that's OK). The thought surely counted. Tamara's mother, niece and other loved ones later joined her at the front of the line.
At 8:45 a.m., a name was drawn for the $2,000 shopping spree ... it wasn't me. A woman who was in line, after about 75 people, came forward as the chosen one.
After much fanfare and collective woo-hoos as the woman entered the store and got as many pairs of size 5 1/2 shoes as possible, the moment arrived. At 9 a.m., the doors open to a rousing ovation by staff and customers alike. I follow Tamara inside and make a bee line for men's shoes, located in the back of the store.
I had at least three minutes alone in the aisles that ranged from size 8 1/2 to 10. I found one pair of Allen-Edmonds that were a narrow width, a black calfskin cap toe, half price (reg. $305). This pair fit very comfortably. So I calmly walk toward checkout, with the store now full of customers and a line of others waiting to come inside, pay for my shoes, and exit.
I was stunned to see the line extend to the Grand Luxe Cafe, a restaurant that is closest to Westheimer Road, which is about 15 storefronts away from Nordstrom Rack, or several hundred yards from the front doors of the store.
What an experience. I did not look back as I got in my car and drove to the next errand for the day. But what a first day for Nordstrom Rack in Houston. The support was tremendous. I'll probably check in around the next major sale, which is usually in May/June (Memorial Day and Father's Day).
As for the store itself, there's no shortage of bargain items. It may be best to let the dust settle after the initial hoopla. Additional discounts usually come about during holidays. So if you missed the first day, don't fret. You at least avoided long lines to get in.
For those who braved the cold, I hope it was worth it. I'm just glad I got my shoes.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Outlet deal of the year
On a recent drive to the factory outlet center in San Marcos, Texas, I go through my usual walk past the storefronts of the entire center. (Takes about two hours. Anyway ...) The last time I went to San Marcos, I found a pair of Edward Green shoes at the Saks outlet for 70 percent off.
This time, I go the Polo outlet and I see many markdowns in menswear. About 10 minutes into browsing, I see a brown pinstripe, 100 percent linen suit that retailed for $600. I figure the suit was 75 percent off, which would make it $150.
I get the sales associate to do a price check. He says it's $37.49.
Are you kiddin' me?
Another sales associate rings it up at checkout.
$37.49. $40.58 after tax.
I couldn't believe it. Though something was wrong with the suit. So we all inspect it. Yep, first quality.
Gladly paid for it and didn't look back. Didn't buy anything else while at the San Marcos outlets. This deal that I got was too good. About 95 percent off? Whoa. Cool.
All that's left is to go to the tailor, which will cost more than the suit.
That's OK. I'll look like a million bucks after the suit is cut to fit me. That's quite a profit.
I'll take it.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Best in U.S.-made: Alden shoes
Chances are I'll have to order Aldens in a narrower width than what is readily available in select menswear stores. I did happen to pick up a C width (Aberdeen last) at Houston Shoe Hospital on Westheimer & Chimney Rock, the only one in my size.
Since I'm on my feet a lot while working, I usually gravitate toward rubber-soled shoes over those with leather soles, though leather soles are more breathable. I was in an old-school mood, so I got this pair of Aldens, a calfskin Norwegian blucher that happened to be on sale. Turns out these shoes are quite comfortable during a walk through a mall.
Before purchasing my shoes, I had considered Alden's All-Weather Walker, which is on a Barrie last. I wasn't totally comfortable with the fit, which had discouraged my interest in this brand.
Now that I'm "soled" on the Aberdeen last (which is also the same last used for the shell cordovan tassel loafers that Alden makes for Brooks Brothers), my confidence is restored. I have seen other men wear Aldens, admired their durability.
Now it's my turn.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
StylePointer rates English shoemakers
I have visited London's Jermyn Street and Savile Row several times over the last few years, and there are so many options from which to choose. A pair of handmade shoes is the ultimate luxury. However, one need not pay 2,000 pounds (about $3,140 as of this entry) to acquire this level of comfort.
Church's of England shoes are pretty popular in the U.S. I especially like their wingtip spectators. One of my contemporaries, Ryan Chua, who recently started his own bespoke tailoring business while working at the Polo store in the Houston Galleria, is a big Church's fan.
Charles Tyrwhitt makes models that regularly retail for up to $650, but have been selling for half price for quite a while these days. Tyrwhitt's shoes are made in Northampton and are quality items. My favorite is the Brown Calf Winchester Co-Respondent shoe, a cap-toe spectator shoe that offers a stylish retro look. The classic brogues in black and brown are available, sharing the denominator of being well made.
Edward Green is another heavy hitter, with bespoke as well as ready-to-wear lines. I recently picked up a pair called the Holborn in Rosewood Country Calf on a 606 last. These shoes retail for nearly $1,200, but I got a good deal on them as they found their way to an outlet store in San Marcos, TX. To possess the elegance of Edward Green shoes that fit like a glove is a lucky thing indeed.
Crockett & Jones is another esteemed company that has made shoes for Polo Ralph Lauren. I still am searching for the C&J last that fits me best, but without question C&J shoes represent quality.
On the high (bespoke) end, look into John Lobb, George Cleverly, W.S. Foster & Son. Each shoemaker has a tradition few others can match.
I hate to do a top five on these shoemakers when I know there are so many English shoemakers. I'll give it a shot, though (debate likely to follow ...):
1. John Lobb
2. George Cleverley
3. W.S. Foster & Son
4. Edward Green
5. Crockett & Jones
Other shoes that deserve mention: New & Lingwood, Grenson, Tricker's, Barker, Sanders.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
StylePointer rates American shoemakers
Not even the brand name can be more important than comfort. Certain shoe lasts aren't for everyone. I have spent more money on name brands where I should have paid attention to how well the shoe fits. Doc Martens of England, for example, are really durable, but the last is too wide for my foot, which I consider to be a medium (D) width.
Same with Alden, perhaps the best in U.S.-made cordovan shoes; too wide for me. I usually choose a C width in Aldens.
Johnston & Murphy? Another great shoe; another wide last. These also last a long time and are a sound investment for those whose feet fit the shoes.
There are three U.S. shoemakers that work best for me:
Cole-Haan has lasts that fit like clockwork. The company was bought by Nike in the late 1980s, and has since improved the comfort level of its shoe offerings, though some of its designs are less aesthetically pleasing than its classic predecessors.
Allen-Edmonds is a staple in consistency, offering rubber as well as leather soles. I recently have found discontinued models (like the Mapleton) that are incredibly comfortable.
The early H.S. Trask models are unbelievable with respect to its use of bison leather and rubber soles. The Gallatin oxfords are nothing short of stellar. I purchased my first pair in the '90s in Philadelphia, and I still have them.
If I had to my top five U.S. shoemakers, it would look something like this:
1. Allen-Edmonds
2. H.S. Trask
3. Cole-Haan
4. Alden
5. Johnston & Murphy
In an upcoming Style Points entry, I will give my top five English shoemakers.
Best in U.S.-made: Bills Khakis
And no, I don't get paid to say this: These are clearly the most comfortable trousers on the market. They're based on the old World War II designs that allow for generous leg room and maximum breathability. Click here for the quick history of Bills Khakis (est. 1990).
What I like about them is not just the wide leg, but the deep pockets and durable fabrics. Bills Khakis are cut from the toughest of cotton and the finest of wool. There are three types of fit: Model 1 (widest leg), Model 2 (less wide, which many specialty menswear stores carry), and Model 3 (slim cut).
Not least, wherever possible, I try to support businesses whose goods are "made in U.S.A." Bills Khakis are not cheap, but a quality investment that lasts.
Where to find Bill's Khakis? Just go to the upper-left corner of their Web site, which has a store locater. I've been successful in finding them at esteemed establishments On The Fly of San Francisco, Culwell & Son of Dallas, The Village Clothier of Houston, and O'Connell's of Buffalo, to name a few.
Bills Khakis are found only at selected menswear stores. If you see them, try 'em ... you'll see what I mean.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Why Style matters
These items are usually found at Neiman Marcus. I recognized most of his clothing before actually asking him. I knew his pieces were carefully chosen.
Turns out this man, a radio executive, is a student of Style. He mentioned Canali as his other designer of choice; he outfitted his 22-year-old son in a Canali suit, and his interest in clothing has since taken off.
Now, I still have my tan Zegna and charcoal Canali suits in my closet. I purchased both in early 2001 at a Barney's warehouse sale in an airplane hangar in Santa Monica, Calif.
So now, I'm on a plane with a 20-year Army veteran who recognizes the power of clothes. "When people are doing business with me, personal presentation matters."
I concur. Clothes send a message. If you're disheveled, chances are you're disorganized. If you're well-coordinated, you likely mean business.
And business this man did mean. He cared enough to put his best look forward.
When I got home, I went to my closet and checked out my suits and casual wear. I know what messages I want to send in future dealings with the people I meet.
Thanks, Mr. Executive Guy.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
When only the vest will do
During America's colonial era, for example, breeches and wigs were the norm for lawyers and politicians. The suit has since become the standard for professional dress for many sectors of the workplace. Toward the end of the 20th century, improvements in technology have prompted a shift toward less formal clothing. Shirts and ties have given way to polo shirts and designer tees.
Whether you choose to go formal or informal, the vest is an excellent complement to either style. A vest can be worn indoors and outdoors, whereas a jacket is usually removed while working in an offices. The vest also offers a retro look.
Not least, the vest usually is not expensive. I've found vests in consignment stores, Urban Outfitters, and Orvis. There are vests that I wear with suit pants or slacks and such, but I prefer cotton over wool.
Right now, the vests I wear have a more Western feel. The Houston Rodeo is coming up in the next month or two, so I'm gearing up for it.
Call it a "vested" interest.
Monday, January 18, 2010
Purchase of the month: Edward Green shoes
Shoes are my primary interest in getting great deals. The last time I closed in on such a deal was in 2005 at a small shoe store in Newport, RI, which had a 75 percent-off sale on select high-end footwear. Usually, these sale shoes will fit those with really small feet or really large feet. Having an average foot (9 to 10 US depending on the last), I was lucky enough to find a pair of Paraboot shoes that fit like a glove. They retailed at $260 at the time. I corralled them for about $70.
Fast forward to Sunday, Jan. 17, in San Marcos, TX ... At Off 5th, the outlet store of Saks Fifth Avenue, I came across a pair of Edward Green derby shoes. Founded in 1890, EG is steeped in tradition and is the shoemaker that Ralph Lauren has used for some of its shoe lines.
I was doubly excited to see that this particular pair of shoes fit really well. They retailed for nearly $1,200 and were now down to $400. I had the salesman hold the shoes for me until I got through the entire shopping center.
I power-walked through the outlet stores for Neiman Marcus, Zegna, Polo, Brooks Brothers, Cole Haan and many others. After about two miles' worth of walking, I decided these shoes were the only item I would buy today.
So back to the Off 5th store I returned, with a coupon for 20 percent off, thanks to my AAA membership discount. After tax, I got a pair of Edward Green shoes (orig. $1,195) for less than $350.
That's about a 70 percent savings. And I'm well aware of the Edward Green reputation for making "the finest shoes in England for the discerning few," according to its Web site. I visited the Jermyn Street store a few years back. The salespeople are more concerned about getting you the shoe that fits rather than just sell you a shoe.
Back to my purchase ... I probably won't be shopping for anything else any time soon. But if there's a bargain out there, I'm always in the hunt.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Time for a new season, almost
What's curious is that winter has visited places that least expect it, like Houston. Temperatures have gone as low as the 20s lately. No snow on the ground, but it's decidedly cold outside. There's still time to reverse the mistake I made: Get your sweaters back out to wear a little while longer.
So far, I've concentrated on shoes as my post-holiday sale targets. There are plenty of items on sale, but check your wardrobes first to see what you might want to stock up on and what you have enough of. That'll help focus your spending habits.
Make the rounds on the following retail stores: Neiman Marcus, Dillards, Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy's, J. Crew, Orvis, Brooks Brothers, Polo, Marshalls, TJ Maxx, Syms. I like going into these stores in person, but they each have Web sites that make online shopping convenient.
There are many more online shopping sites, but here are a few of my favorites: J. Peterman, Sierra Trading Post, On The Fly, Charles Tyrwhitt. I'm all ears on any other sites that offer good deals on clothing.
Ready, set ... go get 'em.